Province (Chicago): Bev director Tony Cournia is on the lookout for eco-friendly wines from the Latin world

Province's comprehensive wine list complements chef-partner Randy Zweiban's cuisine, which features fresh, seasonal foods with Latin twists. Photo by Laurie Proffitt

Perusing Province’s extensive wine list, it’s apparent the eco-conscious eatery is trying to send a message — or two — in its bottles.

Chef-partner Randy Zweiban is known for the fresh and inventive Latin-tinged green American cuisine that he produces in Province’s LEED Gold-certified kitchen.  And “the wine list mirrors the philosophy of Randy’s cuisine,” say Tony Cournia, general manager and beverage director.

That is to say, the list focuses heavily on wines from Latin regions — there are Spanish Tempranillos and Argentinian Malbecs galore, along with other, lesser-known varietals.  But the wine list also goes for the green.

Tony Cournia selects wines based on their country of origin and their eco-friendliness. Photo courtesy of Province

“I will seek out wines from countries such as Chile, Argentina, Spain and Portugal,” Cournia says.  “And I find everything great from those countries.”  Cournia then sifts through his finds and makes “a very concentrated effort” to select wines “from eco-friendly winemakers who choose to farm sustainably and organically.”

He also “fills in the blanks” with varietals produced by environmentally-conscious vintners around the globe.  So the list also has a something-for-everyone assortment from both the Old and New Worlds.  In total, Cournia estimates that 70 percent of the restaurant’s wines have some green component whether they are certified organic, organic, biodynamic or sustainable.

Although “it’s not something you will notice in the glass,” many of Province’s patrons appreciate and value green wines, he says.  “A lot of our guests are eco-friendly, environmentally-conscious and aware.”

Cournia has some favorite winemakers among the many that Province features on its list. Photo by Photo by Laurie Proffitt

Cournia notes that one of his favorite producers is  popular Spanish winemaker Telmo Rodríguez, who is known for recovering forgotten or abandoned vineyards and bringing them back to life.  Currently, Province is offering a 2009 Telmo Rodríguez Gaba do Xil Godello ($39).  The crisp, dry white is produced from hand-picked grapes.

Cournia also favors Alvaro Palacios, another widely known and highly regarded Spanish vintner who produces mainly organic wines.  Cournia is currently featuring a 2005 Alvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat Carignan/Garnacha/Cabernet Sauvignon ($57).

Moving outside the Latin world, Cournia singles out Pommery, the French Champagne and winemaker.  Pommery adheres strictly to green practices, and the restaurant showcases several of its products.  Perhaps most notable is Pommery POP Earth Champagne ($87).   Cournia notes that the POP Earth bottle uses lighter glass than traditional Champagne bottles.  Lighter glass helps reduce pollution and lowers energy costs incurred in shipping.  And even the label, he points out, is “made out of recycled materials and printed with water-based inks.”

Province
161 North Jefferson Street
Chicago, Illinois  60661
312.669.9900
www.provincechicago.com